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magnetic icon. Custom Game Cards (63 x 88mm) [See this store]. A fan organization dedicated to continuing the best game ever made. nordterm2013.se (MPC®) is an established professional custom playing cards manufacturer and playing cards brand since Make Playing Cards - MPC sammelt Geld für Impressions Playing Cards auf Kickstarter! Experience the touch and feel of the artwork on a deck. nordterm2013.se - MPC. Gefällt Mal. nordterm2013.se is an established custom playing cards printing service, run and owned by QP Group. Marke: Make Playing Cards. 4,3 von 5 Joyoldelf Poker Karten - Schwarze Goldfolie PVC Wasserfeste Spielkarten Profi Premium Playing Cards,Familie Party.

Make Playing Cards

Make Playing Cards - MPC sammelt Geld für Impressions Playing Cards auf Kickstarter! Experience the touch and feel of the artwork on a deck. magnetic icon. Custom Game Cards (63 x 88mm) [See this store]. A fan organization dedicated to continuing the best game ever made. Are you going to make more Choice cards? have gotten that question countless times When we teamed up with Ben Kolozsi to create the Blue Choice deck.

Welcome to our website. Here, you will find information about the background of our Company and the role we have within the City today as well as fascinating information about playing cards and their history.

The Company offers a varied programme of events to our members to suit all interests. I hope you enjoy looking through the site and please feel free to get in touch if there is anything we can help you with.

Dr Christopher John Eaton Esq. Find out more. You can follow their full MiddayMusic Playlist , which is updated each week with new videos.

Accordingly, though 75th in order of precedence, it is one of the older of the City Livery Companies, which now number Since the formation of the Company in the Middle Ages when playing cards were the sole entertainment for the population, the production and use of playing cards in London has declined.

Today the Company still has card makers as Members. However, the Company has many other Members connected with playing cards including card collectors, dealers, bridge players, magicians and other professions.

Find out how, with your support, we help charities throughout the country. The Company maintains and continues to expand its world famous collection of playing cards first presented by Past Master Henry Phillips in and housed by arrangement with the City of London at the London Metropolitan Archives.

In , Past Master Henry Phillips presented his own collection of playing cards to the company. Create an account. Edit this Article. We use cookies to make wikiHow great.

By using our site, you agree to our cookie policy. Learn why people trust wikiHow. Explore this Article parts. Tips and Warnings.

Things You'll Need. Related Articles. Part 1 of All rights reserved. This image may not be used by other entities without the express written consent of wikiHow, Inc.

Create your playing cards from scratch in a computer program. Use a program such as Adobe Photoshop or Illustrator to create your designs. Create regular playing cards by using shapes for the suits that are pre-drawn in the program, or draw your own designs for any other type of playing cards.

Gimp is a good free alternative to Adobe programs that has a lot of the same capabilities. Upload photos for your cards as an alternative to making your own designs.

Upload any images you want to use to a design program. Consider using photography of your own, or download images off the web to customize your cards.

Design the backs of the cards if you don't want to leave them blank. Scan the backs of an existing deck of cards you own if you want to use a generic pattern.

Upload photos to a photo editing program to format them for the backs, or draw your own back designs in a design program to use. Print photos and glue them to the backs of cards you own for an easy custom deck.

Print out some photographs on photo paper at the same size as a deck of playing cards you want to customize. Use scrapbook adhesive to glue the photos to the back of the playing cards.

Trim around the corners with scissors to round them. You should only use a max of 5 photos for a regular deck of playing cards.

This way, people can't memorize which card has which photo while you are playing! Part 2 of Get a sturdy cardstock, like index cardstock, to print on.

This works best for printing black and white cards. Color printing will wear off faster after frequent use and shuffling.

You can use this technique to create any kind of custom playing cards you want, from normal poker-style cards, to homemade card games.

Format the cards on the computer to fit the size of the cardstock. Make the cards as big or small as you want. Use a computer program to create an image file the same dimensions as the cardstock and fit as many of the cards as you can on the sheet.

Adobe Illustrator or Photoshop are examples of programs you can use to format the cards, or use Gimp as a free alternative. You could even use a business card template to format the playing cards in one of these programs.

Print your cards on the cardstock with a laser printer. Print the card design you want at home from your computer to a laser printer if you have one.

Take your design file on a USB drive to a print shop if you don't have a laser printer at home. Print a design on the backs of the cards if you want to.

Place the printed cardstock back in the printer with the blank back sides facing up. Repeat the printing process with your back design files.

You can run a regular piece of printing paper through the printer first to test how it prints. Part 3 of Use a ruler and pencil to draw lines between the cards to cut along.

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And that the 'preferences' window does not properly close after you selected the 'Thicker Paper' setting. For inkjet printers you typically have to wait until the ink is dry.

Some inks don't bond well with the cardboard. In general pigmented inks work well, and dye based inks are to be avoided.

The reason is that the expensive 6 cartridges or more Epson printers use dye based inks. Two customers reported very good results with a HP Photosmart C Recently I had very good success with a Canon iP mobile inkjet printer.

It prints very nicely and particularly the alignment of the print is great. The best settings I found out so far are: Paper type: Hagaki that is postcard in Japanese Print quality: High Paper size: A4 Image optimizer: enabled For more information on pigment versus dye inks see www.

The duplexer does not work with the thick cardboard and you will have to print front and back separately.

Probably the best and lowest cost solution to get started is to use the services of a print shop. I had Kinkos print 10 sheets front and back on a color copier and the result was wonderful - beautiful colors.

I think these color copiers use a chemical to fuse the toner, not heat, which makes the print quality very good. Other printer alternatives. I have no direct experience with them but searching online, reading reviews and articles I found these interesting candidates.

One of the main issues with laser printers is being able to handle heavy cardboard. In general you want to go with the ones that can deal with the thickest cardboard.

Most other small home laser or office laser printers can print on gsm. Okidata offers an interesting line of color laser printers that can handle heavy stock at affordable prices.

Xante Ilumina Those who want to go professional with this card making idea might want to look into the Xante Ilumina color laser printer. This printer does print on very heavy cardboard up to gsm which is much heavier than the typical gsm playing cardboard.

Another printer in that class is the OKI C Actually I have read that the Xante is a modified C Color Matching In many cases you will not need to color match your print because you are printing out all cards for your trick - gaffed and not gaffed.

Since it is now much easier to print an entire deck of cards color matching has become much less of a concern than it was in the past. However, if you need to color match your prints, then read on for some tips of how to do that.

One note before you dive into color matching. Have the deck you want to color match in front of you. USPCC is known to have a weak color quality control.

You can find decks with very different colors. In some cases the red is already more a pink and the yellow can be a deep orange, blue can exhibit various degrees of darkness, etc.

Brute force method The least sophisticated method is simply to try as many shades and variations until you get close enough.

The best is to do this systematically and print out sheets of slightly different colored squares and compare to the color on the card you want to match.

Color profiling The pros use sophisticated measurement equipment to define colors and measure color profiles of printers. There are services that do that for you at reasonable prices take a look at www.

Another alternative is to buy a Colormunki www. The Colormunki is a spectrophotometer that helps a great deal in matching colors. The pros who need to repeatedly color match will want to get one.

For the rest we can provide some help - read on. Frank Lehmann was so kind to measure four Bicycle decks from different print runs with his Colormunki.

The results are tabulated below. Nevertheless, I think the numbers should be reasonably close. But Frank's measurements do give you an idea where to start.

This set of numbers is only half the story because your printer is not yet profiled or calibrated to really print out the colors you tell him to print out.

Nevertheless, with these measurements we have at least defined one side of the problem and specified the colors we need to match.

Coating Cards The best time to coat cards is after you have printed them and before you cut them out. Our playing card coating can be applied with a hard rubber roller or Brayer as they are typically called, a Preval sprayer or an airbrush.

Get a legal sized clip board the letter sized are too short or any other board with a flat smooth surface. Put first a layer or scrap paper or newspaper on the board to absorb any excess coating.

Then tape or clip your printed cardboard on top of it. Now you take the bottle of playing card coating, open the spout and dispense a line of coating across the entire top width of the cardboard.

I actually put a tape across the top edge of the cardboard and dispense the coating on the tape. This prevents that too much liquid gets absorbed by the cardboard before it can be spread out causing the cardboard to get wavy.

After the coating as been dispensed on the top I take the roller and with one medium pressure stroke roll the coating over the entire sheet.

A kitchen towel is used to clean the roller for the next coating sequence. While I clean the roller the coating dries.

Once the coating has been spread thin over the cardboard it dries very fast. I typically wait no more than a minute or two and then repeat the same process for the sheet's back side.

For those that don't mind a little project I suggest to build the following coating machine. The nifty double sided coating machine I figured out how to build for a few bucks a nifty manual coating machine that coats a sheet of cardboard on both sides.

The photos shown are from my first prototype built from two 4" hard rubber hand rollers, and some hardware taken from the Vex robotics kit.

Above you can see the nifty coating machine. Two rollers are positioned next to each other. The long screws are there to adjust the pressure with which the two rollers are pressed together.

Only a small amount of pressure is necessary. Essentially the rollers kiss each other. Below you can see how a piece of cardboard here a 4.

To coat the cardboard a small amount of coating liquid is put into the groove formed by the two kissing rollers. The liquid will stay in that groove and not run down, because the rollers touch each other.

Then a sheet of cardboard is inserted from the top into the groove between the rollers which holds the coating liquid. First push the cardboard down and then pull the cardboard through the rollers from below.

This will uniformly coat the cardboard on both sides. It works great. For easy cleaning the machine can be opened up as shown below.

My next step is to build this machine from two 8" rollers so that one can feed an entire A4 cardboard sheet through it. The hardware I am using is great for prototyping but is not necessary.

Two wooden boards to which the rollers are mounted and a few screws should be sufficient. Preval Sprayer You can also spray-on the coating.

A cheap way to do this is with a so called 'Preval sprayer'. This is essentially an 'airbrush in a can'.

It consists of a pressurized spray can that has a diptube sticking out from its bottom. A glass jar filled with coating is screwed to the bottom of the sprayer.

Follow the instructions on the packaging. You will also have to remove the filter at the bottom of the diptube. Experiment with dilution ratios or use the coating as is.

Airbrushing the coating A card maker colleague shared the following recipe for airbrushing the coating. He used 1 part water to 2 parts lybrary. With an airbrush you will achieve a much better and finer control of your coating.

Other methods that have failed Until I found the right coating liquid and developed the method explained above I tried a number of other things.

Nothing really worked well, but I know that there are alternative coating methods out there - I just don't know them. If you know of any other method to coat playing cards please let me know.

I am curious. For completeness sake here are all the things I tried and didn't work: ACE Clear Enamel: This is a coating not primarily for paper but for wood and other hard objects.

It has a somewhat rough feeling, doesn't slip well, and smells for a while. Not recommended. Krylon Kamar Varnish: It feels somewhat slick to the touch, does not smell but does not produce slippery cards - not enough to produce a good fan and nowhere near the feeling you are used to from store bought cards.

If you work the cards, slide them against each other, shuffle them, etc. Damar Varnish: Stay away from this one. Smells a lot. Soaks too much into the card itself.

Another option would be to use self-laminating sheets, but I am not sure how the air-cushion dimples would work in combination with such a lamination sheet.

It might produce a lot of air bubbles. One would have to find a particularly thin one. I have seen such films in 3mil and 2mil thicknesses but have not yet tried it myself.

I think that this would produce too thick a coating. The problem with this type of coating is that it needs to be cured with UV light. I don't know if one can create a home process to do that.

Drytac did run a sample for me that produced a pretty good coating. But these UV coats are not entirely safe to use and not entirely environmentally friendly, and therefore not your best option for a DIY process at home.

There are several other brand names for clear coats in spray cans, from SureGuard and other manufacturers. However, my feeling is that none of these will really produce a playing card finish.

A few more resources I stumbled on that you might find of interest if you want to do your own coating experiments: various glue rollers www.

Eterna Giclee EZCoater 38 www. It is too expensive for the casual card maker but perhaps for the power users here it might be a great tool.

Looking around for airbrush kits I stumbled on airbrush units for tanning like the Viatek I-Bod. Should you need to use a UV curing liquid coat you will need the right UV lamps.

That means that all kind of tanning lamps should work. I think particularly the Bion Face Tanner www. Or perhaps even much lower wattage Blacklight lamps could do the job.

Also for mineral identification purpose UV light is used. At mineralab. I could not find a price. Believe it or not the ladies use UV top coat and UV curing to protect their finger nails.

The lamps are typically called UV light nail dryer and the coat itself UV-cure top coat. A different class of products that might work are wax and polish products for floors and for cars.

I have not tried them myself but they could do the trick. Jeremy Rayner pointed out to me: "In 'Greater Magic' this is discussed at some length in the chapter called VIII Locations, starting at p in my edition with p describing how to apply floorwax and another allegedly superior ingredient called 'Simoniz'.

It simply is a rod that is tightly wound with a wire of a precise thickness. This rod allows one to coat a piece of cardboard or paper with a precise coating thickness.

With the straight edge and box cutter you cut the sides and with the scissors you round the corners. With a bit of patience and a good eye you will be amazed at how well you can round corners.

But it is not the ideal solution because the cuts are not burr free and the accuracy and repeatability is not sufficient for my personal quality standards.

Cutting with a box cutter produces an asymmetric cut because the cutting process is asymmetrical - a knife presses from the top against a board.

The top side of the cut is smooth, the bottom side has a burr. For playing cards this burr is a major problem.

The cards don't slide as freely and easily as they do without the burr. You will have to sand the edges or treat them in some other way to remove the small burr.

The straight edge and box cutter can be replaced with any other paper trimmer or cutter be it guillotine or roller based.

But that is too big a radius. These can cut several cards at the same time but are too expensive for an entry model or the casual DIY card maker.

That is why I decided to source 3mm rounders directly from a tool manufacturer. Another great alternative is a die cutter that cuts out the entire card - edges and corners.

You can even find ones that cut out 8 cards with one action. These die cutters do cost several hundred dollars. Be careful with the card size these cutters produce.

Not all produce exactly poker sized cards. A poker size card is 63mm x 88mm, which is not exactly the same as 2. Last I checked Nandeck is free, so you can download it.

Short of having a computer you would have to draw the images by hand, a long and laborious process to be sure, but still do able. I've also found a slighty better method of making the cards that I'm working on an instructable for.

Is there an advantage to folding and gluing the cards over printing on both sides of the card stock? Reply 10 years ago on Introduction.

Another advantage of folding and gluing is that you can add a visual barrier between the face and back of the cards. Where as with printing on both side of card stock this is not possible and even the heaviest card stock lb that I can find is still quite see through :.

Reply 11 years ago on Introduction. The "slickness" I get with a glossy spray is about equal to that of a purchased deck.

I misinterpreted your original comment thinking that you liked them to be slick. Did you make this project? Share it with us! I Made It!

Concrete Trivet by radialdesign in Kitchen. AnneEyles 3 years ago. Reply Upvote. Charles 3 years ago. The top third is the face of the cards, so you put there whatever you want to be on the face.

SteampunkManiac 9 years ago on Step 2. SteampunkManiac tcreyn Reply 9 years ago on Step 2. I have office word I'm confused on how to make the card assembly.

KyleBratcher4 tcreyn Reply 5 years ago on Introduction. How will I be able to do this if I don't have any of these programs?

The one on the "format autoshape" dialog. JohnMichael 11 years ago on Introduction. Things You'll Need. Related Articles.

Part 1 of All rights reserved. This image may not be used by other entities without the express written consent of wikiHow, Inc.

Create your playing cards from scratch in a computer program. Use a program such as Adobe Photoshop or Illustrator to create your designs.

Create regular playing cards by using shapes for the suits that are pre-drawn in the program, or draw your own designs for any other type of playing cards.

Gimp is a good free alternative to Adobe programs that has a lot of the same capabilities. Upload photos for your cards as an alternative to making your own designs.

Upload any images you want to use to a design program. Consider using photography of your own, or download images off the web to customize your cards.

Design the backs of the cards if you don't want to leave them blank. Scan the backs of an existing deck of cards you own if you want to use a generic pattern.

Upload photos to a photo editing program to format them for the backs, or draw your own back designs in a design program to use.

Print photos and glue them to the backs of cards you own for an easy custom deck. Print out some photographs on photo paper at the same size as a deck of playing cards you want to customize.

Use scrapbook adhesive to glue the photos to the back of the playing cards. Trim around the corners with scissors to round them.

You should only use a max of 5 photos for a regular deck of playing cards. This way, people can't memorize which card has which photo while you are playing!

Part 2 of Get a sturdy cardstock, like index cardstock, to print on. This works best for printing black and white cards. Color printing will wear off faster after frequent use and shuffling.

You can use this technique to create any kind of custom playing cards you want, from normal poker-style cards, to homemade card games.

Format the cards on the computer to fit the size of the cardstock. Make the cards as big or small as you want. Use a computer program to create an image file the same dimensions as the cardstock and fit as many of the cards as you can on the sheet.

Adobe Illustrator or Photoshop are examples of programs you can use to format the cards, or use Gimp as a free alternative.

You could even use a business card template to format the playing cards in one of these programs.

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